Ask three different firms what a deck costs and you will get three different numbers, and none of them will be wrong. The price depends on the material, the size, the ground it sits on and how much of the job is preparation rather than boards. This guide sets out realistic ranges so you can budget properly before anyone comes round with a tape measure.
For a straightforward ground level deck with good access, most homeowners in the North West can expect to pay somewhere in these ranges, including materials, substructure and labour. Prices are quoted per square metre because that is how most decking firms estimate, and it makes it easy to compare quotes.
A small 3m by 4m deck of 12 square metres is at the cheaper end of the scale because there is little cutting and one day of labour. Once you get above 25 to 30 square metres, the per metre rate usually drops slightly, but the total obviously climbs. Bear in mind that VAT, skip hire and any electrical work for lighting are often quoted separately, so ask for a full breakdown.
The boards themselves are only part of the bill. On a typical job, the timber or composite might account for around half the cost, with the frame, fixings, membrane and labour making up the rest. That is why a cheap board does not always mean a cheap deck.
Ground conditions matter a lot around Bolton. Many gardens sit on heavy clay or have old flagged patios and rubble under the topsoil. Removing an existing patio, digging out for concrete pads or installing ground screws all add time. A sloping garden that needs a raised frame with posts, bracing and balustrade can easily double the substructure cost compared with a flat plot.
Access is the other big one. If everything has to be carried through the house or down a narrow ginnel, allow for extra labour. Terraced houses with rear alley access are usually fine, but a mid terrace with no back gate can add half a day.
Softwood is the cheapest to buy and fit, but it needs treating or oiling every year or two, and in a wet Greater Manchester climate untreated boards start to go green and soft within a few seasons. Over 15 years, the maintenance products and your own weekends add up.
Composite costs roughly twice as much up front but needs little more than a wash down with a brush and some soapy water. Most reputable boards carry a manufacturer warranty of 15 to 25 years against rot, splitting and fading, though check the small print because some warranties only cover the boards and not the labour to replace them. Hardwood sits between the two on maintenance and lasts a very long time if oiled, but supply and price vary a lot depending on species and where it is sourced.
Measure your space before you ring anyone. Even a rough length and width lets a fitter give you a sensible ballpark over the phone, and it stops you wasting time on quotes that were never going to fit the budget. Take a couple of photos showing the ground, any steps and how you get into the garden.
When comparing quotes, check that each one covers the same things. One firm might include a weed membrane, joist tape and stainless fixings while another has left them out to look cheaper. Ask what size joists are being used and at what centres. Composite boards generally need joists at 300mm to 400mm centres, so a frame built to softwood spacing will flex and void the warranty.
Finally, be wary of anyone who will not put the specification in writing. A proper quote lists the board brand and colour, the frame material, the fixings and whether waste removal is included. That protects you as much as it protects the fitter.
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